Tuesday, March 27, 2018

We made the crossing on Sunday, leaving as soon as I could see the set of the waves. We were incredibly lucky with the weather. I had been watching it for a week and timed the crossing on the only day we could go. The rest of this week is calling for 5-10 seas, somethng I wasn't interested in. We crossed to Ft. Pierce, arriving about 4:30 on a nice Sunday afternoon and the entrance was an absolute cluster# of recreational boats fishing, running around, all kinds of things, but everywhere. Picked a good anchorage near the Harbortown Marina in Ft. Pierce, and began the process of clearing into the US. I called the customs office and was put on hold for 20 minutes, then used both cell phones to increase our odds of getting through. I finally talked to the agent and did that part by phone, but then he informed me that to clear immigration is a separate process. That required gooing to the airport and needed to do so within 24 hours. They closed at 6 so waited until yesterday morning, took the dinghy don, loaded the bikes and rode the 3 miles to the airport for their open at 10am. Got there 20 minutes early and there was another couple waiting to do the same thing. While we waited for the office to open, 6 other couples who had been to the office showed up. Had a visit with most of them while waiting. Finally the agent opened the window, took all the Americans documents at one time, and made the 4 Canadian and British people go last. He was a man around 35 who would be well served by seeing me professionally. Anyway, he took our passports went behind closed doors, came back 10 minutes later, returned them and said we could go. No questions or talk, no stamp on the passport, nothing except the powdered sugar on our passports from his doughut. No wonder our borders are porous. We biked back to the marina, had a great lunch with a good IPA and put on 60 miles yesterday afternoon. We anchored at sunset at Honeymoon Lake and had a quiet night. Left this morning at 0700 with the plan to move as far as we can the next 3-4 days to get to Brunswick by Friday night. Not much for pictures, we have been up and down this piece of water several times now and my interest in seeing any more of Florida is pretty low. Georgia and SC are nicer, and nicer people.
Engine Hours 4987
Genset Hours 5568

Last view of the Bahamas Sunday morning

Saturday, March 24, 2018

Our Bahamas part of our winter is almost over. We are going to cross back to Florida in the morning weather permitting and the weather window still looks favorable tonight. It has been amazing and learned a lot. Loads of beautiful sunrises, sunsets, anchorages and adventures. We are at West End of Grand Bahama Island tonight. Two days ago we anchored at Moraine Cay. It turned out to be the best of the trip and a great place to wind things down. It was isolated, rarely used and we were all alone. Weent for a snorkel in the afternoon and the coral, although the best we have seen yet, was dangerous due to the current flowing out. I thought we were going to get washed out to the Atlantic. The island itself reminded me of fish camps on the Canadian side, the island is for sale for 2 M but the buildings are basically frame cabins, 3 off them. The beaches on both the bank and ocean side were gorgeous. No one around. We were disappointed that we couldn't snorkel the coral that afternoon, so delayed our departure the next morning and snorkeled at slack tide, amazing, and the lobster hunting went well.When we departed, went on to Sale Cay and then on to West End today. I reviewed our data this evening. Since mid January we have traveled 1750 miles, averaged 5 miles/gallon of diesel including generator use and watched 31 Wild games. Stayed a total of 3 nights in marinas. We never ran out of beer or tequila.

Moraine Cay with breakers in the background

Moraine Cay sunset

Plucked this coconut off the tree at Moraine Cay. Delicious!
Bug Harvest

Sunset tonight at West End of Grand Bahama Island
Surf and turf an wild rice. I doubt anyone wihin several hundred miles had wild rice like this tonight

Thursday, March 22, 2018

It's been a quiet couple of days activity-wise. I worked Tuesday and we moved only 15 miles yesterday, conditions were not condusive to going much further. A big cold front came through, had a bit of a thunderstorm yesterday morning and the wind picked up and is now NW going to north tonight. Blew hard yesterday afternoon and last night, but we tucked into White Harbour on Green Turtle Cay and were protected. They have moorings here but they were all taken, we anchored between the moored boats. Not sure what we will do today. I would really like to put some miles on so we can cross back to Florida on Sunday. Right now that looks like the window. After that it might be another 4 days for another break. But, we have 100 miles to get to the edge of the bank, so that is 2 pretty good days and it would be nice to take it in 3 pieces rather than 2. We will be going NW into the teeth of the wind and waves. The boat will do fine but it might not be a lot of fun for us, so will decide a little later this morning.
Engine Hours 4954
Genset Hours 5555
this is the "grocery store" in Marsh Harbour. They sell everything.

Our anchorage at sunset night before last

A walk on the beach Tuesday morning

These snails are everywhere, and usually well above the high tide mark



These trees grow out of the rocks, just like at home.

Monday, March 19, 2018




We are anchored in Marsh Harbour. Came in here mid afternoon yesterday, went ashore and explored the town. Unfortunately it was Sunday and most things were closed, but the grocery store was open and it was a "regular" grocery store with great selection on most things and priced pretty well for the Bahamas. Marsh Harbour is the "charter capital" of the Bahamas. There was a time when we had considered coming here and chartering a boat, but went to the Virgin Islands instead. Now we are here with our own boat, and it is a thrill. We are going to hang around this morning and get some more groceries and explore a bit, then move up the island chain to the northwest a few miles and try and find a place with decent internet to work tomorrow. This work thing is a pain trying to find good internet. Yesterday morning we left our anchorage and only went a couple of miles to a series of mooring balls for dive/snorkel sites. We snorkeled a couple of them and it was the most incredible snorkeling I have ever experienced. The Elkhorn coral was absolutely spectacular. Loads of fish, lobster, and all was 10 feet or less. But, the second site was the crown jewel. As we were swimming back to the dinghy on the mooring ball, looking down in 15 feet of gin clear water were 3 spotted eagle rays wafting along. Their wing span was 8 feet or more and their tails were even longer. The most spectacular site I have ever seen diving or snorkeling. Hard to say "holy shit" through a snorkel, but we both did!


These are not our pictures, we don't have the underwater camera with us but this is exactly what we saw.  Their wing span was enormous, 8 feet plus

Lighthouse building enroute to Marsh Harbour
Local clinics

The view from our happy hour location yesterday. Our boat is dead center in the image. We had local  tuna (cooked rare) and it was delicicious. 

Saturday, March 17, 2018

We spent a couple of days at Laughing Bird Cay near Governor's Harbour. It gave me the opportunity to work Thursday, which went well. The internet connection was fine for a change. We hiked the area, went to the pink sand beach across the island which is only a mile across at this point. Yesterday we left in the dark at 6 AM. It was really pretty magical leaving in the dark. The sea was absolutely flat for a change and we watched the dawn enroute. The reason for the early departure was to time the tide at Current Cut 35 miles to the north. This is a cut between the banks and the ocean, and can flow at up to 5-6 knots. If there is wind against the tide, it creates a "rage" with stacked waves that can be dangerous. By timing it, we went through with the current with us, no wind or waves and we had a flat ride. 7 miles further and we made camp at Egg Cay by mid day. Spent a delightful afternoon snorkeling. The coral off the back of the boat was some of the best we have seen. Today we will make the crossing to Great Abaco, and likely Little Harbor. It is 50+ miles across the deep water so will troll most of the way. it is supposed to be flat most of the day.
Engine Hours 4936
Genset Hours 5540
Flat seas, a real treat


Dawn after we left in the dark
The sun is getting ready to come up

The clinic at Government Harbour

The community was founded in 1648


Pink sand beach (sort of)

It is "pinkish"

Thursday, March 15, 2018

Well we went fishing with Lyndon andhis nephew Fron on Tuesday. It was a bust. Lyndon told me he had never been skunked. Now he has. Not sure if it was bad luck or I got "took", but the sport fish boat next to us in the marina who is a pro, fished all day and hooke only one fish, so maybe it was just a bad day. We only fished a half a day, had boat chores to do the rest of the day.
The marina at Davis Harbour was perfect for us. Extremely low key, a hole in the wall, no amenities and priced right but they had a big washing machine that Cindy took advantage of. Got a great hike in yesterday morning early and pulled out moving up the island of Eleuthera 40 miles or so to an anchorage just south of Goverment Harbour. We hiked the town yesterday, found a little store with an ice cream bar, the first ice cream in 6 weeks or so I think. Found a bar with a beer late afternoon and today I am going to try and work. Last week the internet was crappy and had to bail on work. I am more optomistic today. Tomorrow we may get going extremely early. We need to negotiate plce called Current Cut, where the tidal flow reaches 5-6 knots, and it would be nice to go through at slack tide or close to it. By my calculations, the slack tide will be 2 hours after Nassau high tide, which puts it around 10 am and it is 30 miles away, o may leave in the dark. We'll see what the weather gives us. Then on Saturday on north into the Abacos with a tentative plan to cross back to Florida late next week.
Engine Hours 4930
Genset Hours 5535

Our fishing buddies at Davis Harbour

Chickens everywhere

The boat framed by the arch at one of the cemeteries we walked by

Church at Government Harbour

Sunset from our anchorage near Government Harbour with another church on the right

Davis Harbour sign


Ruins near Davis Harbour



Sansevieria everywhere

Tuesday, March 13, 2018

It's been several days since I was able to post anything. The internet has been incredibly slow, barely able to get the weather I nthaeeded, let alone upload pictures, but now we are in a good spot on Eleuthera. We spent 2 days in Georgetown reprovisioning, groceries, a little tequila, a box of wine and of course beer. i also changed the engine oil and filter. We are set for the rest of the trip I hope. Left Georgetown on Friday and worked our way north, sort of on the way home. Stopped at a gorgeous anchorage off a cave and a beach, it was beautiful. Explored the cave from the water and the next day went looking for the elusive lobster. No luck, the snorkeling was fine, and did spear a lionfish. They are an invasive species and killing them is highly encouraged, and the are also delicious. They look feathery and delicate but are anything but. They have toxic tips on their fins which can be really dangerous if exposed. I cleaned him with gloves on and had a great fish taco hors'douerve. That day we moved north again 25 miles or so to an anchorage called Big Majors Spot. It is a popular place because there are pigs on the island that great you at the beach. Lots of tourist boats come by to see the pigs from neighboring resorts. It is also near the "James Bond" Thunderball grotto, where the movie was shot. It was really pretty amazing, snorkeling under the edge of thegrotto to get inside, which was a pool 150 feet acrross completely enclosed except for a 15 foot "skylight" above illuminating the pool. Full of reef fish and gin clear. A very neat spot. Yesterday we left there and shot across the Exuma Strait to Eleuthera where we are now and will stay until Wednesday. Trolled across the 30 mile deep water and got broke off twice. When we arrived at the marina we are at now, Davis Harbour Marina, a crew helped us dock in pretty big wind uneventfully. It was clear there has been storm damage here. It is a back island marina without much for amenities, but water is free, an unusual circumstance, and we are getting low. The power didn't work when we hooked up to shore power, so they were going to call an electrician. I poiked around and found the problem, no one had flipped the breaker in the breaker box. Cindy did some laundry and we met Lyndon Mackey, unrelated to the Ely families. Anyway, he is a local fishing guide and is going to take us fishing today (Tuesday) and explained why we got broke off twice yesterday. He re-rigged our tackle with wire. Says wahoo will break off anything else. he also said he has never been skunked, so looking forward to learning a few things and eating fish tonight.
Engine Hours 4921
Genset Hours 5533.1


The cave at our anchorage
Lionfish on the end of my spear

This plane landed at the pig beach bringing in tourists.

Lionfish tacos at happy hour

Pig Beach

Swimming Pigs


Thursday, March 8, 2018


Yesterday we went "outside" to Georgetown. Big swells made it interesting. At times we were on top of the swell and could see great all around, and between the swells all you could see was water above you. The boat liked it and handled it well. Got to Georgetown around 12:30, entering the harbor entailed riding the swells a bit, but they weren't breaking, and no danger. Anchored near the dinghy dock along with hundreds of other boats. It seems a lot of people come here and just stay for the winter. Went to town and bought some of the essentials, fresh stuff and beer. Wandered around, it is a town that is Winton sized. The grocery store reminded me of the old Zup's store in the 60's, during tourist season. Today will try and find the NAPA store, there is one here, and get a couple of extra gallons of oil. I need to do a change before we leave. Probably won't stay here more than another day or so. Too many people. Plan to start the return trip via Eleuthra tomorrow. Also, we finally lost our Direct TV signal. Had been waiting for that as we headed south and east, so no hockey for a bit. Go Hermantown and East! We'll follow online.
Engine hours 4905.7
Genset hours 5221.4
caught en route yesterday

Inedible barracuda

Reelng in a fish

Many of the houses are pink
Local beer at a bar overlooking the harbor

A plethor of mast lights in the harbor behind us, there must be 250 boats here at least
Pretty church in Georgetown